Balik ke Kampung

April 11, 2008

"Balik ke Kampung" means return to the village and is a very common expression in Malaysia. Kampung = village and the Kampung holds a very special place in the hearts and minds of Malaysians. The kampung lifestyle is often romanticized as a utopia; people are happier in the kampung, people are healthier in the kampung, life is easier, and life is better in the kampung. The kampung is very much a part of the Malay psyche. Actually, the kampung is very much a part of the Malay reality considering the current generation of 20-30 year olds is the first generation out of the kampung. Everyone I meet - I mean everyone - "balik ke kampung" during the holidays to visit with their parents and usually a few brothers and sisters who still live there. Malaysia may have the Petronas Towers, the mega malls, the massive development projects, and the facade of the ultra modern but if you look a little deeper there is still a rural, village culture that is thriving.

We started out in Bangi - a quiet, low key Malay town well outside Kuala Lumpur. We spoke more Malay than English and though there were cows and chickens in our neighborhood we were close to a commuter train station and only 1 hour from a crazy international city. Hardly a kampung environment. Now we are in KL which is about as far from the kampung as you can get, although I do spot the occasional chicken. No self respecting anthropologist could live almost 2 years in Malaysia and not experience the kampung, SO, we will be moving to the kampung on May 19th. We will live there for 2 months. I am actually pretty excited about this and you can only imagine Casey's reaction.

Today we got on a bus and headed to Kuala Mai. It is about 2.5 hours East of KL - basically in the middle of the peninsula. Casey has been here before and she used her contacts to secure permission from the head of the kampung allowing us to rent a house. We went there today to confirm the details, scout out our future digs, and get an idea of what we are in for. We are in for some fun. We are in for some frustrations. We are in for some ... well, for something different. I am actually very psyched for this next adventure.

Good Stuff:

The food is unbelievable. It is so delicious and Malays are constantly shoving food in your face - consequently, I am constantly shoving food in my mouth, and the cycle is born.
The pace of life is slow - if you want to spend the entire day in a hammock no one thinks that is a bad idea.
I will get to help farm, fish, and do all sorts of other fun kampung stuff.
People are crazy friendly and generous - this can actually become a frustration as your privacy, independence, and autonomy is Non-Existent.
The place is gorgeous - next to a river, surrounded by jungle, and totally peaceful and quiet. We will be only 30km from Taman Negara - a Malaysia National Park where any elephants caught in the peninsula are released.
We are close to Temerloh - a sizeable town with all the modern conveniences and trappings.
It is cheap - we will be renting a house for about $70/month.

Frustrations:

No English - only Malay. I am seriously going to have to step up my game.
I will have a hard time sleeping as Casey will be freaked out by the creeping jungle and all that it hides. It doesn't help that Malays strongly believe in ghosts and ghosts, of course, are most commonly found in the Kampung.
Misunderstandings, miscommunications, and social faux paus. Language and cultural barriers will make for many a Mis.....
Housing. We will rent a one floor 2 bedroom house that is structurally sound and clean enough. There is however no furniture - ZERO. Not even a kitchen cabinet. There is a sink but that is the only thing in the entire house. There is of course no hot water and no ac and the only toilet is an asian style squat toilet. There is, however, an awesome front porch with the perfect place to hang a hammock. What more do you really need. Actually the house is quiet nice and 2 months without hot water, ac, or furniture is no big deal. Truthfully though, I have a feeling that when we arrive on the 19th the village will have pooled their resources and at least partially furnished the house. That's how they roll in the Kampung.
My biggest frustration will be the chickens. See - I hate chickens and in the kampung there are chickens everywhere. I've spent some time with chickens and those little monsters don't start crowing at daybreak - they start crowing at about 3am and they continue for the next 18 hours. I hate them. I saw a bunch of little tiny chics today and you may think they are cute and adorable but those little chics will grow up and start crowing at 3am.

The kampung is going to be awesome! We move on May 19th! We only have one picture from today but I promise to post more when we move


Within one hour of arriving at the kampung I was loaned a scooter to go exploring. This is one of the good things - the absolute generosity of kampung folk. My left foot is still a bit lame and I had some trouble down shifting. Fortunately, with Casey on the back she was able to work the foot clutch for me. Totally safe - note the helmet - also totally safe.
This picture has nothing to do with the kampung except that it shows how much fun Casey will have when she lives there.